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(Updated 28 March 2006)

CHEESE

Cheese making is perhaps as old as mankind itself. The intricate and delicate balance of traditional hand-made methods have been augmented by the mechanical and industrial processes of technology to meet the increased demands of a cheese-hungry populace. The key to merging these differing technologies sucessfully is through the art of maturation.

"Maturing" begins when "cold" replaces "warmth" and "damp" takes over from "dry" in cheesemaking. Heat is the principal agent that curdles milk and separates curd from whey in the production of cheese. The lower temperatures and controlled humidity of the maturation process stimulate the micro-organisms and enzymes that modify the structure of the final product. Maturing (ageing or curing) alters the cheese's composition and promotes the fermentation of sugars, triggering proteolysis (the breakdown of proteins) and lipolysis (the breakdown of fats). The action of microbes and enzymes completely transforms the taste characteristics of a cheese, altering its smell, taste, texture, digestibility and appearance, both inside and out. It is maturing that makes possible todays extroadinary variety of cheeses.

Although modern processing is perhaps a necessity in todays marketplace, we at Enos Imports understand the value of tradition and are committed to bringing you, our customers, the finest of the traditional cheesemakers. We select our producers with care, seeking out small-farm producers that maintain the quality of their product utilizing old traditional methods.

Now lets take a look at just some of the fine cheeses available at Enos Imports.

QUESO CABRALES (SPAIN- COW'S MILK or COW/GOAT/SHEEP BLEND) This is a natural cheese made in the artisan tradition by rural dairy farmers. Cabrales can be made of pure cow's milk but, depending on availability, it can also be blended with some goat and/or sheep's milk as well. All the milk used in its production must come exclusively from herds raised in a small zone of production in northern Spain. Cabrales is aged from two to six months in natural caves in the nearby mountains. In these caves, the relative humidity is 90% and the temperature varies between 45 and 55F. These conditions favor the development of penicillium molds, yielding veins of blue-greenish color. Cabrales is sharp and tangy in taste, and can be even more so when made with mixed milks. Like the similar blue cheeses Gorgonzola and Roquefort, Cabrales is a famous blue cheese whose name is often copied by inferior wannabees. Contrary to popular belief, authentic Cabrales is wrapped in aluminum foil, not leaves. Spanish blue cheese wrapped in leaves is either called Valdeon or Picon.

CACIOCAVALLO (ITALY- COW'S MILK): From southern Italy, caciocavallo, meaning "cheese on horseback," is said to date back to the 14th century and believed by some to have originally been made from mare's milk. The Italian name of this cheese can most likely be related to the practice of hanging the moulds astride (in Italian, "a cavallo") horizontal rods. Today's caciocavallo comes exclusively from cow's milk and has a mild, slightly salty flavor and firm, smooth texture when young. As it ages, the flavor becomes more pungent and the texture more granular, making it ideal for grating. Caciocavallo is one of the pasta filata types of cheeses, like Provolone and Mozzarella, which means it has been stretched and shaped by hand. It may be plain or smoked and comes in string-tied gourd or spindle shapes. Caciocavallo is a traditional stretched curd, homemade Naples style mozzarella cheese made from cow's milk. It is produced using the whole milk of the cows raised in grazing fields. The cows that give the milk live in their natural state in grazing fields rich in shrubs and brushwood plants. The caciocavallo cheese, with its flavour and scent, reveals the pasture where the cows were raised. It is still handmade using ancient methods. The cheese is produced over a wide area that encompasses several town districts in the regions of Calabria, Campania, Molise and Basilicata and in the provinces of Foggia, Bari, Brindisi and Taranto. The caciocavallo is a typical Italian cheese. Perhaps the most famous variety is the one that is produced in Sicily in the area of Palermo or of Ragusa, known as "caciocavallo ragusano."

CRESCENZA (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Today, Crescenza is almost exclusively an industrial product. It apparently takes its name from the Latin word "carsenza," meaning "flat bread," because if kept in a warm place the cheese ferments, swelling up and bursting open just like a loaf of bread does when it rises. Crescenza belongs to the Stracchino family. As it is a "fresh" cheese, Crescenza takes only five or six days to mature. It has a mild, delicate flavor and a milky smell, and is a light cheese because it has a low fat content of just 20-25%. Again, due to its freshness, it is an easy cheese to digest. Crescenza should be served before other, less delicate cheeses, and preferably accompanied with bread, making it the perfect appetizer. Crescenza can be used to enhance a simple dish of spaghetti with butter and to make baked pasta dishes.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

GARROTXA (SPAIN- GOAT'S MILK) This goats milk cheese was once produced solely in the Garrotxa area of Catalonia, in the Pyrenees region of Spain that is furthest to the East, lying right on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. Today, Garotxa is a modern, farmhouse, unpasteurized semi-hard cheese made from unpasteurized goat's milk. Although based on an old recipe, it has been developed and marketed using modern methods. Garrotxa is aged for 2-4 months. During the maturation process the cheese develops a natural rind of furry mold. When maturation is complete, the rind is patted down with olive oil, giving Garrotxa its characteristic fuzzy appearance. The cheese itself is smooth and creamy with a pleasant, clean, crisp, tangy flavor. The pure, white milk seems to have absorbed the flavor of fresh walnuts and the scent of mimosa, while retaining the fresh crispness of young grass. It is an excellent table cheese for snacking or for use as an appetizer. Garrotxa is delicious with young fruity white wines and with quince or apple paste.

GORGONZOLA (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Legend has it that gorgonzola is an example of a mistake leading to its invention. The story claims that an innkeeper in the town of Gorgonzola had made too much Stracchino cheese. After a mold developed on and throughout the cheese, he questioned whether it was still any good. Unable to absorb the potential loss, he served the cheese anyway. His customers liked it so much they had to increase production. The method (still used today) starts with producing curd from an evening milking, allowing it to settle overnight and topping it with curd from the morning milking. Cheeses are now pierced to accelerate the veining of the Penicillium glaucom bacteria. The creamier variety of Gorgonzola is called Dolce, meaning sweet. Almost spreadable, Gorgonzola Dolce is beautifully delicate with a sweet tangy flavor. The firmer variety of Gorgonzola is called "Mountain," which refers to the Lombardy cow's milk put away in caves high up on the Valsassina region. The result is a firmer, bluer, more intense gorgonzola.

GRANA PADANO D.O.P. (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Grana Padano is a semi-fat, hard, pasteurized milk cheese. With an aging of 12 to 18 months, Grana Podano is like the younger sibling of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Less expensive than its more famous counterpart, Grana Padano remains very similar in taste and texture, though it is a milder and less complex cheese. Grana means grainy, which refers to the somewhat granular texture of the cheese. "Padano" is an adjective describing the Po River Valley in Northern Italy, where the cheese originated in the 12th century as a way for medieval monasteries to preserve excess milk. The cheese is still made in this region today from the milk of grass-fed cows, following the strict guidelines of the Consorzio per la Tutela del Formaggio Grana Padano. The rind is hard, smooth, thick and dark yellow or golden brown. It must bear the mark of the Grana Padano Consortium. Only Grana Padano made in the province of Trento can be identified with its place of origin, the Trentingrana mark. The body is straw-yellow, finely granular and breaks away in flakes. The palate is fragrant with a strong yet delicate flavor. Grana Padano is excellent for grating on pasta or for snacking on by the sliver.

IBERICO (SPAIN- COW/GOAT/SHEEP BLEND) Iberico is one of the many cheeses of Spain that is made from blended cow, goat and sheep's milk. These three milks are mixed together to create a truly delicious cheese. Iberico is very similar to Manchego, in that it is made in the same type of mold and, therefore, has the same, embossed basket weave pattern imprinted into its inedible black rind. One of the most popular in Spain, this hard, oily cheese is mild, yet tasty and aromatic. The blend of milks allows it to have the grassier, herbier flavors of the goat and sheep's milk toned down by the smoothness of cow's milk. It is typically used as a table cheese but is also good for cooking and pairs well with Spanish red wines and Spanish meats. It is also perfect for grating and grilling. Try it with quince paste or Spanish jams!

IDIAZABAL D.O. (SPAIN- SHEEP'S MILK) Idiazabal is one of the lesser-known but extremely delicious sheep's milk cheeses that come from the Paíís Vasco region in Spain. Idiazabal is an artesan cheese, originating from the Basque region, and uses unpasteurized latxa (sheep) milk that is typical from the area. Locally, Idiazabal is called "Queso de pastor," or "Shepperd's" cheese. Normally this cheese is smoked with beechwood, hawthorn or cherry wood. An unsmoked version is also produced in the lower regions of the valley or in the area located in Navarra where there is no tradition of smoked cheeses. The cheese is an ivory yellow color and the flesh is punctuated with little holes. The cheese is handmade and covered in a hard, dark brown, inedible rind. When young (aged for only a few months) it develops a rich, piquant, consistent and long lasting buttery flavor with a pleasant smoked finish. It is best at this stage, especially when accompanied with quince jam. If aged longer, it becomes firm, dry and sharp and can be used for grating. It is excellent served as an appetizer, but perhaps goes better with bread and, of course, with a nice red wine.

MAHON (SPAIN- COW'S MILK) Mahon, made only from unpasteurized cow milk, comes from the island of Minorca. The creation and production of Mahon is very ancient. It is only produced between September and July. The cheese is of a yellow- whitish color and pressed so that it has almost no holes in it. To prevent the cheese from getting too dry during the aging process, it is sometimes smeared with butter or olive oil, and sometimes paprika coated. Mahon can be matured for up to a year and comes in the fresco (fresh), semicurado (semi-cured) and curado (cured) varieties. The rind is edible. The cheese is controlled by a Board of Denomination of Origin Mahon, one of the first such Boards to be established in Spain. Mahon is traditionally served as an appetizer, sprinkled with olive oil and is excellent when eaten with membrillo (quince paste).

MANCHEGO D.O. (SPAIN- SHEEP'S MILK) From the region in Spain called La Mancha, Manchego cheese is the most important and well-known sheep's milk cheese in Spain. Made from pasteurized sheep's milk, Manchego emits a full nutty flavor. The shape of this cheese is very characteristic and defined, due to the traditional use of esparto grass molds which imprint a zigzag pattern along the side of the cheese. The small wooden boards used for pressing the cheese also imprint the typical wheat ear pattern on the top and bottom. This rustic mold is used outside of La Mancha as well, so there are other Spanish sheep's milk cheeses with similar shape and markings. The true Manchego cheese, however, is made only from whole milk of the Manchega sheep raised in the "La Mancha" region. This region is a vast high plateau, more than 600 meters above sea level, which extends from east to west and north to south, adjoining the provinces of Toledo, Cuenca, Ciudad Real and Albacete, all in the Castile-La Mancha Autonomous Region southeast of Madrid. Aged Manchego is more full flavored, firmer, and aromatic than younger versions. Manchego with Rosemary (D.O.) is a medium-aged Manchego delectably seasoned with rosemary sprinkled on top creating a potent full-flavor. All versions of Manchego can be served with antipasto or as an appetizer with crackers.. It goes great with a strong, robust red wine.

MONTASIO D.O.P. (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Montasio is a creamy, unpasteurized, hard cheese made from cow's milk, although originally it was made only from sheep's milk. It was a monastery produced cheese developed in the thirteenth century in Maggio. It has recently been awarded the status of D.O.C. - denominazione di origine controllata - meaning the cheese is produced in a specific region of Italy following well-defined traditional procedures to preserve its authenticity. The cheese has the shape of Fontina but the texture of a young Asiago. The characteristics change with the maturing time. Its taste, which is mild and delicate when fresh, becomes stronger and fuller of flavor as it matures. Its texture changes also, from the white, compact, smooth and flexible rind when fresh, to a grainy and crumbly rind as it dries and darkens during aging. Regardless, it is a cheese that is always good whatever its age: when it is fresh after maturing for only two months, when it is mild after maturing from five to ten months and as a mature cheese after maturing for more than ten months. It is produced in perfect shapes, neither too big nor too small, suitable for the family table and for restaurants. This cheese can be used as both a table cheese or grating cheese and can be served as part of any course in your meal. It is excellent served with a Sauvignon Blanc.

PARMIGIANO REGGIANO D.O.P. (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Pamigiano Reggiano is a traditional, unpasteurized, hard cheese made from skimmed cow's milk. It is shaped like a drum, with sticky, hard, yellow-to-orange rind. The aroma is sweet, the color fresh yellow and the taste fruity. Parmigiano Reggiano's flavor is unmistakably piquant. Its nutritional content makes it a wholesome food - highly digestible and versatile. A sprinkling of Parmigiano is good on anything. Primarily a grating cheese, Parmigiano Reggiano is a great topping for soups, pasta dishes, veal, chicken or salads. In Italy, this cheese is sold in large, grainy chunks, chiseled from the shiny drum that carries its name emblazoned on the rind. Parmigiano Reggiano is the king of cheeses, not only because of size ( Parmigiano Reggiano weighs 75 pounds and must be cut by a saw) but also popularity ( 2,700,000 tons of 'Parmigiano-Reggiano' is sold every year). Produced in 650 small factories, each factory produces no more than 5 or 6 tubs, or 'forms,' of cheese per day and this is the secret to its quality. For some reason large scale manufacturing does not lead to the same quality and so the methods used have not changed much from the 13th century. The areas of production include the provinces of Bologna (left bank of the river Reno), Mantova (right bank of the river Po), Modena, Parma and Reggio Emilia. The milk from which it is produced is strictly controlled by a regulatory board which guarantees its quality. Producers must adhere to strict processing and aging procedures. The most superior cheeses are made between April first through the middle of November. The true product can be recognized by a series of dots stamped into the rind, marking the wheel. Parmigiano is best preserved in the refrigerator wrapped in cheesecloth or a paper towel.

PECORINO TOSCANO D.O.C. (ITALY- SHEEP'S MILK) The term "Pecorino Toscano" refers to the sheep's milk cheeses in the Tuscan region of Italy. Of all the Tuscan cheeses, Pecorino Toscano is the only one that has received a protected designation of origin. It has a sweet, delicate and exclusive taste, a flavor that is the result of skilled and patient workmanship where nothing is left to chance. Fresh Pecorino Toscano (Pecorino Fresco) is matured 20 days while aged Pecorino (Pecorino Staginato) is matured for 4 months. Fresh Pecorino Toscano is ideal as a snack on its own or used in the kitchen to create delicious dishes and to embellish special salads. This delicate cheese can be easily recognized by its white tending to light yellow color. It has a definite harmonious flavor which is not spicy and its fragrance is never pungent. Aged Pecorino Toscano has a slightly darker yellow flesh and a more decisive taste. It goes very well with various cold meats or bread, or simply cut in slivers and dressed with oil and pepper. Just add a glass of wine and nothing can beat it as a snack or as a prelude to your entree.

PICON (SPAIN- COW'S MILK) Picon is a cheese made in the likeness of Cabrales, but without the Board of Denomination of Origin (D.O.) Designation. This cow's milk pasteurized cheese is blue, with a full flavor and a strong and piquant taste. It is made of pasteurized cow milk and aged for 3-4 months before its consumption. It comes wrapped in the traditional way in maple tree leaves and has a somewhat crumbly texture. There is actually very little difference between Picon and Cabrales, D.O., except from the strict controls imposed for production by the Board of Denomination of Cabrales. Freed from the dependency on cow's milk from the specified region, Picon can be produced in larger quantities, making it a much more economical cheese. The milk for Picon comes from the Asturias and Cantabria regions, some of the richest pasture areas in Spain. Picon may be served as an appetizer with crackers or crusty bread. It is highly recommended with red Rioja wines of selected vintage, but some people prefer to have it with a chilled dry sherry.

P'TIT BASQUE (FRANCE- SHEEP'S MILK) The natural border dividing France and Spain is the Pyrenees mountain range and the home of Ptit Basque. While industrially produced cheeses have made major gains in the lowlands, there are still hundreds of small mountain cheesemakers who stick to the old, traditional methods established by their ancestors centuries ago. Amongst these artisans, herds average just one-to-two hundred sheep. They are hand-milked, limiting the yield the shepherd can expect. P'tit Basque is a labor-intensive cheese. The curd is cut, literally, by hand. The cheesemakers reach an arm into their kettle of warm curd and, ever so slowly, break it by hand into small pieces from which the final cheese will be formed. This ancient technique protects the gentle flavor of the finished cheese. The results are worth it. This semi-soft, pure sheep's milk cheese develops its reddish rind and aromatic taste during the ripening process which takes approximately five months. It has a deeply nutty taste with a firm crumbly texture.

RONCAL (SPAIN- SHEEP'S MILK) The "University of the Seven Val de Roncal Villages" in northwestern Navarre, on the border of Aragon, is a rural farming community with a single management of the pastures and woods. This administrative structure dates back to ancient times and guarantees an optimum and rational exploitation of its natural resources. Following a strict time-table set out by the Valley's Municipal government, Roncalese farmers have moved with their flocks each year, from the winter pastures in La Bardenas Reales, southern Navarre, to the summer pastures higher up in the valley. The production of a cured variety of cheese using unpasteurized sheep's milk is one of the main occupations of the farmers. The excellent conditions of evergreen pastures and the suitability of the Lacha and Rasa-Aragonesa breeds, selected especially for milk production, lend themselves very well to this occupation. The traditional hand crafted methods of making Roncal cheese are jealously guarded family secrets, unwritten and handed down through the ages from one generation to the next. Today, a sizeable industry exists and several farmhouse cheese-makers have been transformed into industrial size dairies while maintaining the traditional spirit of cheese making. Roncal was the first of the Spanish cheeses that obtained "appellation d'origine," the Spanish designation for protected areas. In form, it is a hard cheese, cylindric in shape, and weighing about 6 to 7 pounds each. The flesh is an ivory color. In taste, Roncal is both spicy and smoked at the same time. Roncal may be stored for up to six months without any appreciable flavor loss.

SALVA (ITALY- COW'S MILK) - Lombardy, Italy is well known for its cheeses. Its provinces produce great quantities of high-quality milk and, naturally, it produces a lot of cheese. Many cheeses are produced by large well-equipped facilities and have become famous throughout Italy. Nevertheless, not only is Salva Cremasco typical of the Crema area of Lombardy, but it is the cheese that is a true native of the area. This cheese used to be made in May with the excess milk that is produced at that time of year. Salva (literally, "it saves" in Italian) was therefore an appropriate name for a cheese which represented an economic lifeline for many dairies. Even today the cheese that is made in the spring is the best. Salva Cremasco is a mature, compact and very white cheese with high sides and rectangular form, and with a dark rind. Salva has a delicate flavor when young, acquiring aromatic notes of "autumn leaves" as it matures.

TALEGGIO D.O.P. (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Hailing from Italy's Lombardy region, Taleggio is a rich (48 percent fat), semisoft cheese is made from whole cow's milk. Its flavors can range from mild to pungent, depending on its age. When young, Taleggio's color is pale yellow and its texture semisoft. As it ages it darkens to deep yellow and becomes rather runny. Taleggio is sold in flat blocks or cylinders and is covered either with a wax coating or a thin mold. The name Taleggio has been used before the 10th century in the caves of Val Taleggio. It might be one of the oldest soft cheeses. The production takes place every autumn and winter when the cows are tired (Italian: stracche). The cheese is set on wood shelves in chambers, sometimes in caves as per tradition, and will mature within six to ten weeks. It is washed once a week with a seawater sponge in order to prevent mold infestation and to prevent the cheese from forming an orange or rose crust. Its crust is thin. Today, the cheese is made from pasteurized milk and from raw milk in factories. The factory-made ones are brighter and moderate in flavor. Spices, raisins, nuts and some lemons are also added. This incredibly pungent creamy cheese is the classic "smelly socks" type of cheese but that shouldn't put you off trying a sample. It's excellent with salad greens or served with fruit for dessert.

TETILLA D.O. (SPAIN- COW'S MILK) The curiously shaped Tetilla is a cow's milk cheese that comes from the Spanish region of Galicia. The word "tetilla" (meaning nipple) clearly defines the traditional shape of this cheese, a flattened pear-shaped cone with a small nipple on the top. It is the most characteristic cheese from Galicia, easily recognized by its shape. The texture is creamy and smooth and it is white with a yellow rind. It is sold as a young mild creamy cheese after maturing for about three weeks. It has a milky, slightly sharp and mildly salted flavor that is very soft on the palate. Tetilla is excellent when served as an appetizer, perhaps along with bread, and tastes great with any white wine.

TOMA PIEMONTESE (ITALY- COW'S MILK) Toma is a type of cow's milk cheese produced throughout the Alpine arc of northern Italy, especially in the regions of Valle d'Aosta and Piemonte. Interestingly, it tends to crop up in those areas where the classic mountain 'fontina' has less of a presence. In Valle d'Aosta it was used mainly as a substitute for meat, which tended to be scarce in the hills, and is still wonderful when cooked with polenta or soup. In Piemonte there are more than 20 types of Toma with the DOP mark awarded to those produced in the provinces in and around Novara, Vercelli, Biella, Torino, Cuneo and a handful of comune near Asti and Alessandria. A genuine Toma cheese should be made the old 'artigianale' way, by the very hands of the farmer who overlooks the grazing and milking of his animals on the Alpine slopes throughout the year. The cheese should be seasoned for at least three months until it develops a soft, elastic consistency and a light, yellow crust. The taste is fairly salty becoming 'piccante' as the months pass. Toma Piemontese is sweet, with a deep flavor that becomes more noticeable as it ages. Of the family of Toma cheese, Toma Piemontese is the only one to bear the distinguished the DOP label.